You’ve likely been told—probably on more than one occasion— not to peel away a gel manicure. But it turns out that in some cases, it may not be so bad after all. “The answer really depends on what the nail looks like post picking off the gels,” says Dana Stern, MD, a dermatologist who specializes in the treatment of nails. “If the gels peel right off and leave the nails basically healthy-looking then this may in reality be a better way to remove them. This is because the alternative methods that are used for removal (long acetone soaks, electric filing, scraping with an orange stick) can be a lot more damaging to the nail plate.”
Though if your nails do look damaged after peeling off your gel polish—white patches, surface irregularities, severely dehydrated, peeling, splitting—Dr. Stern says you should definitely refrain from picking.
If you’re the latter, heading to the salon every time you need your gels removed is time consuming and costly. The good news: You can remove them like a pro at home by following these four steps.
Step 1: Break the shiny seal
Alincas
Use a buffer, like Alincas 4-Way Shiny Block ($5, amazon.com) to gently file away any protective topcoat still lingering on your nails.
If you have a design on your nails, Evelyn Lim, chief educator of Paintbox in NYC, says you should file through the design to the base color. “This is important to allow the acetone to penetrate to the deepest layer and speed up your removal process,” she says.
Once the nail color looks matte and powdery, you’re ready to move on to the next step. “Just be careful not to buff too much in the process—you don’t want to hit your natural nail,” says manicurist Skyy Hadley, owner of As U Wish Nail Salon in Hoboken, New Jersey.
Step 2: Wrap up your nails
Super Nail
To start dissolving the gel, use a 100 percent acetone polish remover, like Super Nail Pure Acetone Polish Remover ($8, amazon.com). You’ll want to soak cotton balls in the remover, place them on your nails, and then wrap pieces of aluminum foil over the cotton balls and your nails. Let every nail soak for a good 15 minutes to soften the polish, says Hadley.
Lim adds that you should wrap your fingers extra tight. “Trapping in the heat will allow your gel to come off more rapidly, so you can opt to put your hand in a glove,” she says.
Step 3: Remove remaining color
After unwrapping your nails, most of the polish should easily come off on the acetone-soaked cotton balls. Use a wooden cuticle stick to gently scrape off any remaining bits of polish, says Hadley. “If you have trouble, soak your nails with a cotton ball for five more minutes, and try again,” she says.
Whatever you do, just be careful not to use too much pressure because your nail plate will be very soft, Lim points out. (You don’t want to scrape off parts of your nail!)
Step 4: Moisturize, moisturize, moisturize
Deborah Lippmann
Your nails and cuticles will likely be dry post-removal, so after you’re done taking your polish off, wash your hands and apply a hydrating cuticle oil.“Oils rich in phospholipids like sunflower oil, help increase nail flexibility,” explains Dr. Stern. The TenOverTen Celery Oil ($26, tenoverten.com) has a mess-free, rollerball applicator you won’t mind using.
OPI
Consider taking a week off to give your nails a break from the harsh effects of acetone. And if you can’t go without color but don’t want to wreck your nails, try the OPI Gel Break Treatment System ($15, ulta.com). The three-step kit is packed with vitamins to heal and protect nails, and tops them off with a pretty sheer shade to hide any damage.
Here’s what to do if your gel manicure just refuses to come off:
Even if you follow the directions to the T, sometimes you’ll have a stubborn mani that just will. Not. Budge. (The worst!) For cases like these where it feels like your polish was basically welded onto your nails, head to a salon for professional help. A manicurist there will be able to get the color off, and ensure your nails are in tip top shape for the next #ManiMonday.
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